Kitchen Floor Plans
11x12 Kitchen Layout & Cost
02.19.2026
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A 15x8 kitchen is 120 square feet arranged in a shape that doesn't play by the usual rules. You've got width—15 feet of it—but only 8 feet of depth. That's enough room for a generous appliance run and a proper dining table, but not enough depth to drop in an island or spread cabinetry across three walls without the room closing in on you.
This footprint is common in ranch homes, older suburban splits, and open-plan renovations where a wall came down to widen the kitchen at the expense of depth. It also shows up in newer townhomes and condos where the kitchen occupies a wide alcove off the main living area. The proportions favor layouts that stretch horizontally and leave the center open — which, when done right, creates a kitchen that feels bigger than its square footage.
The good news for your budget: the 8-foot depth naturally limits how much cabinetry, countertop, and plumbing you can fit. That constraint actually works in your favor. You're not tempted into expensive three-wall configurations or island plumbing runs that inflate the bill. The most effective 15x8 layouts keep things simple, and simple costs less.
At 120 square feet, a 15x8 kitchen is 20% larger than a standard 10x10 but shaped in a way that keeps costs closer to the benchmark than you'd expect. The shallow depth means fewer linear feet of cabinetry on secondary walls, shorter plumbing runs, and less countertop material overall. Where you'll spend more is on the 15-foot primary wall — that's a long run of cabinets, countertop, and backsplash.
Stock cabinetry, standard countertops, mid-range appliances, and updated lighting. The layout stays the same. This is a surface-level update — new finishes, same footprint. At a 15x8 size, a basic refresh stretches further because the room's shape limits the scope naturally.
Semi-custom cabinetry, engineered stone and soapstone countertops, upgraded appliances, and improved lighting. This is where layout modifications become possible — moving the stove to a side wall, relocating the fridge, or adding a short peninsula. Plumbing and electrical changes at this level add $2,500–$7,000 depending on complexity.
Custom cabinetry, premium appliances, full reconfiguration, and finish-level details. At this budget, you're rebuilding from the studs — new subflooring, updated electrical, and potentially structural work if you're changing a wall or window. You’re also splurging on high-end materials to give your 15x8 kitchen a truly luxurious feel.
The 8-foot depth is your budget's best friend. Single-wall and simple L-shaped layouts dominate at this size, which means less cabinetry, fewer corner cabinets (the most expensive per linear foot), and shorter utility runs. Compared to a square 11x11 kitchen with the same total area, a 15x8 renovation typically costs 10–20% less at the same finish level because the shape pushes you toward more efficient configurations.
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The stove, double sink, dishwasher, and fridge line the 15-foot upper wall. A rectangular dining table with seating for six fills the open floor below.
The 15-foot wall holds everything without compromise. Every appliance fits with counter space between — no forced trade-offs between a landing zone and the fridge. The cook works along one wall while the table sits comfortably in the remaining 5–6 feet of depth, clear of the cooking zone.
Single-wall layouts are the least expensive to build. Plumbing, electrical, and cabinetry stay on one wall, which minimizes labor and material. No corner cabinets, no secondary utility runs, no peninsula construction. If your renovation budget is tight and your priority is a kitchen that works well for daily meals, this is the configuration that delivers the most function for the least money.
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The fridge, double sink, and dishwasher line the upper wall. The stove anchors the left-hand wall. A rectangular dining table with seating for six sits in the center-right of the room.
Moving the stove off the 15-foot wall and onto the 8-foot side wall creates a tighter work triangle — fewer steps between the sink, stove, and fridge during active cooking. The stove also gets its own backsplash wall and dedicated space for a range hood, which turns it into a proper cooking station instead of one appliance in a long row.
The L-shape adds a second wall of cabinetry and countertop, plus an electrical or gas run to the stove's new position. Expect 20–30% more in materials compared to the single-wall version. But the cooking efficiency gain is real — if you cook frequently, you'll feel the difference in how the triangle flows every evening.

The dishwasher and double sink line the upper wall in a shorter run. The stove sits on the left-hand wall. The fridge is freestanding on the lower-left. A large dining table with seating for six to eight occupies the right half of the room.
Pulling the fridge off the main wall opens up the longest uninterrupted counter run in the set — the stretch between the sink and the end of the upper cabinetry becomes a serious prep surface. The fridge, positioned on its own wall, can be a full-size or counter-depth model without squeezing between cabinets.
This layout seats more people than any other configuration at 15x8. The right half of the room is almost entirely open, which means the table has clearance on all sides and the cook isn't bumping elbows with anyone sitting down. For families who eat together most nights or host regularly, this layout earns its square footage.
The fridge relocation may require extending a water line to the new wall ($500–$1,500). Otherwise, the material footprint is similar to the standard L-shape — the trade is less upper-wall cabinetry for more dining room.
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The fridge, microwave, double sink, and stove run along the full 15-foot upper wall. A peninsula extends downward from the left end. A rectangular dining table with seating for six occupies the center-lower portion of the room.
This is the most that a 15x8 kitchen can hold without feeling overstuffed. The full upper wall keeps every appliance within arm's reach. The peninsula adds a buffer between the cooking zone and the dining area, extra base cabinet storage, and a convenient landing surface for serving.
This layout works because the peninsula extends from the end of the wall rather than projecting into the center. That preserves a clear walkway between the peninsula and the table. If your depth is closer to 7.5 feet or you have a door swing on the left wall, this configuration gets tight — the L-shape with dining (Layout 11) would be the safer choice.
The full-length upper wall means maximum cabinetry, countertop, and backsplash material. The peninsula adds another $2,500–$5,000 on top. This is the most expensive layout in the set, but it's also the only one that combines a complete cooking wall, extra storage, and a sit-down dining area in a single room.
The shape of a 15x8 kitchen already does some of the budget work for you. Here are the decisions that stretch the savings further.
Moving a sink is one of the most expensive single changes in a kitchen renovation — extending supply lines and drain pipes to a new location runs $2,000–$5,000. In a 15x8 kitchen, the sink's original position on the main wall is usually the right one. Build the rest of the layout around it.
The long wall is where your budget has the most impact — every dollar spent on semi-custom cabinets, a quality countertop, or a proper backsplash is visible and functional. Cabinetry on a short 8-foot side wall has diminishing returns. If the L-shape only adds three or four base cabinets to the side wall, ask whether open shelving or a freestanding storage piece would serve the same purpose at a fraction of the cost.
A layered lighting plan — recessed cans, under-cabinet LED strips, and a pendant over the dining table — runs $2,000–$5,000 installed and changes how the kitchen looks and feels at every hour. A countertop jump from quartz to natural stone at 15x8 dimensions might add $2,000–$4,000 but doesn't alter the daily experience the same way. If you have to pick one, pick the lights.
Appliance packages drop 20–35% during Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Black Friday sales. On a $5,000–$10,000 appliance package, that's $1,000–$3,500 back in your pocket — enough to fund the lighting plan or upgrade a few cabinet interiors with pull-out trays and soft-close hardware.
At 8 feet of depth, a freestanding island with adequate clearance on both sides isn't realistic. Some designers will suggest a narrow rolling cart or a butcher-block island as a compromise — and those are fine as furniture — but don't spend construction dollars on a built-in island in a room this shallow. The peninsula option (extending from an existing wall) gives you the extra surface and storage without the circulation problems.
The kitchens that work best at this size aren't trying to be something they're not. They lean into the width, keep the depth open, and put the budget where it shows up in daily use — a cooking wall that flows, a table that seats the family, and lighting that makes the room feel finished.
With Block Renovation, you can test different configurations and finishes through the free Renovation Studio — seeing how each choice affects your total cost before anything gets built. When you're ready, Block connects you with vetted local contractors who provide detailed, comparable proposals backed by progress-based payments and a one-year workmanship warranty.
The best 15x8 kitchens don't fight the proportions. They use them.
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Written by Keith McCarthy
Keith McCarthy
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