Architectural Styles
Craftsman Bungalow Renovation Ideas & Practicalities
07.09.2026
In This Article
If you own a 1920s house, you already have something new construction can't reproduce: plaster walls, cast iron radiators, and trim milled to profiles no lumberyard stocks anymore. Those details are the main reason the house is worth keeping, and they're the first things lost in a careless remodel. The work worth doing updates the systems behind the walls, the wiring, plumbing, and insulation, while leaving the character intact.
The 1920s produced several distinct architectural styles, and knowing which one you own shapes every remodeling decision that follows.
Craftsman homes have low-pitched roofs and wide front porches, concentrated in California, the Pacific Northwest, and the Midwest. The interiors are built around woodwork, especially built-in cabinetry and heavy trim, and most Craftsman remodels restore it rather than replace it.

Tudor homes are unmistakable, with steeply pitched roofs and decorative half-timbering, and they cluster in the Northeast and Midwest. Inside, arched doorways and dark wood beams sit alongside a heavy stone or brick fireplace.

Bungalows are compact single-story homes with wide porches and deep overhanging eaves, common across California, the Midwest, and the South. Efficient layouts and built-in benches make the most of a small footprint.

Colonial Revival homes borrow from early American architecture: symmetrical facades, multi-pane windows, and columned entryways. They turn up along the East Coast and in older suburbs nationwide, usually with a formal dining room and detailed moldings inside.

Mediterranean homes pair stucco exteriors with red tile roofs, most often in California and Florida. Inside, textured walls and hand-painted tile do most of the work, often with wrought iron accents.

Cape Cod homes are small and symmetrical, with steep roofs and dormer windows, and they're most common in New England. Interiors lean cozy, with wood paneling and built-in storage.

While ranch homes became more popular in the 1940s and 1950s, early versions appeared in the late 1920s, especially in the West and Southwest. These homes are single-story with open layouts and large windows. Renovation ideas include updating kitchens for better flow, adding sliding doors to connect indoor and outdoor spaces, and preserving original brick or stonework.

Good 1920s home design is a big part of what makes these houses worth owning, and most of the original 1920s home interior can survive a remodel intact. Here's what to keep, restore, or recreate.
The era favored rich, saturated colors like deep green, navy, and burgundy, usually paired with creamy neutrals. Soft pastels showed up too, particularly mint and pale peach. A living room in forest green with ivory trim looks period-correct without feeling like a museum. In kitchens, pale yellow walls over black-and-white tile were a common combination worth reviving.

Art Deco defined 1920s decorating: bold geometric patterns, metallic finishes, fan and chevron motifs. An Art Deco wallpaper on a single accent wall or geometric tile in a bathroom backsplash gets the look without committing the whole house to it. Etched mirrors and vintage prints work as smaller entry points. For a deeper dive, read Art Deco Bathroom Design & Remodeling Ideas.
Wide baseboards, crown molding, window casings, and built-in cabinetry are the details buyers pay for in a 1920s house, so refinish before you replace. Stripping decades of paint from original trim is tedious but cheap relative to what it adds. Where woodwork is missing, a millwork shop can knife-cut a custom profile to match the originals, typically for $3 to $8 per linear foot beyond stock trim pricing. Built-in bookcases, benches, and hutches are almost always worth saving.

Original 1920s fixtures used glass globes and brass or bronze finishes, often with geometric or floral detailing. Rewiring an original fixture usually runs $75 to $200 and is far cheaper than a quality reproduction. If the originals are gone, look for globe pendants, brass sconces, or chandeliers with stepped details. In bathrooms, wall-mounted lights with frosted glass shades stay true to the period.
Subway tile, hexagonal floor tile, and mosaic borders were standard in 1920s kitchens and bathrooms, and all three are widely available today. A black-and-white hex floor with a contrasting border is the most recognizable period bathroom treatment. White subway tile with dark grout does the same work in a kitchen. Mosaic "rug" patterns set into entryway floors were a 1920s signature worth recreating.

Fireplaces anchored 1920s living rooms, usually with decorative tile, brick, or stone surrounds. Restore original tile where it exists. Where it doesn't, architectural salvage yards stock period tile and mantels at a fraction of reproduction cost. Vintage andirons or a classic firescreen finish the look.

Picture rails let you hang art without cracking plaster, which is the practical reason they existed in the first place. Wainscoting protects walls in high-traffic rooms and adds the paneled texture the era favored. Beadboard suits bathrooms and mudrooms; raised panel wainscoting belongs in dining rooms. Paint either in a contrasting color rather than matching the walls.

Small hardware swaps are among the cheapest period-correct upgrades you can make. Look for:
Salvage yards sell original glass doorknobs for roughly $10 to $30 apiece, often cheaper than new reproductions.

A good 1920s renovation pairs restored original elements with contemporary pieces rather than forcing everything into one era. A modern sofa looks right against original moldings and a period fireplace, and current appliances slot neatly into period-style cabinetry and tile. The mistake is splitting the difference everywhere, which leaves the house looking like neither decade.
Cheryl Benjamin, Real Estate Broker and Founder at Loving Phoenix Realty, watches buyers move through period homes across the Phoenix market and sees where sellers misjudge what matters:
"What may surprise some homeowners is how much buyers focus on smell, light, and cleanliness. Many homeowners think buyers are impressed by fancy decorations or modern furniture. Most home buyers care more about how the home is laid out, its overall condition, the price, and simply how the place feels."
– Cheryl Benjamin, Real Estate Broker and Founder, Loving Phoenix Realty
Stained glass windows and transoms showed up in 1920s entryways, bathrooms, and stairwells. Professional restoration of a cracked or fading panel typically costs $300 to $800, well below commissioning new work. Stained glass film is the budget route and looks better than its reputation suggests from a few feet away.

Cast iron radiators heat well and outlast every forced-air system, so keep them if they work. Cleaning and repainting in deep green, navy, or white restores them visually. Vintage-style covers with decorative grilles double as display shelves where a bare radiator doesn't suit the room.
Plaster walls are quieter and more durable than drywall, and patching original plaster costs less than most homeowners assume. A plaster specialist can match the original finish on damaged sections. For new walls in a remodel, veneer plaster over blueboard gets the authentic look at a modest premium over standard drywall. Ceiling medallions and cornices in plaster reinforce the period feel.
Checkerboard tile, herringbone wood, and bordered hardwood were 1920s staples. Original floors usually hide under carpet or paint and respond well to refinishing. Vintage or reproduction rugs with geometric or floral motifs layer over either.
The fastest way to make a remodel look costumed is to add every period detail at once. Pick a few flourishes per room and let them carry the era, rather than layering picture rails, stained glass, patterned tile, and ornate hardware into the same space. A single strong period gesture in a room looks intentional. Pile on five competing ones and the space starts to feel like a theme restaurant.
The choices get easier room by room. In a living room, the fireplace surround can be the one period anchor, with everything else kept quiet around it. A hex-tile floor does that job on its own in a bathroom, so the fixtures can stay simple. Kitchens usually carry their period signal in either the tile or the cabinet hardware, not both at full volume.
Restraint also protects resale. Buyers who love a 1920s house still have to picture their own furniture in it, and a room styled to the hilt in one direction makes that harder.

For more inspiration, read 1920s house renovations: before and after ideas.
Behind the plaster, the systems in most 1920s homes are near or past the end of their service life. These are the areas a remodel should address first, and they line up closely with what buyers reward. Cheryl Benjamin sees the same priorities in Phoenix's older listings:
"People want houses that feel comfortable, with plenty of storage space and an area to work from home. They also want low energy costs and the ability to move in right away. Buyers care about more than the appearance of a house. They want to know it's been well maintained, too."
– Cheryl Benjamin, Real Estate Broker and Founder, Loving Phoenix Realty
Many 1920s homes still carry original knob-and-tube wiring and 60-amp fuse boxes, neither of which handles modern loads. Knob-and-tube also disqualifies many homes from standard insurance coverage. A full rewire with a 200-amp panel typically runs $8,000 to $20,000 depending on home size and access, and it's the upgrade to do before closing up any walls. While an electrician is in there, add grounded outlets and hardwired smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, plus capacity for whatever you're planning later, like central air or EV charging.

Original galvanized steel supply lines corrode from the inside, which shows up as low water pressure and rusty water long before a visible leak. Cast iron drain lines crack and clog over time. A whole-house repipe in copper or PEX typically costs $5,000 to $15,000. While the walls are open, add shut-off valves at every fixture and swap old fixtures for water-efficient models. Homes with basements should get a drainage inspection at the same time.
Most 1920s walls have no insulation at all. Blown-in cellulose or dense-pack can be added through small holes drilled between the studs, with minimal damage to the original plaster.
The original wood windows are usually worth keeping. New weatherstripping and a good storm window, roughly $200 to $400 per opening, get you close to replacement-window performance at lower cost, and the originals will outlast vinyl. Where a window is truly beyond repair, a high-quality replica preserves the look. To find the leaks first, read Finding and Fixing Drafts in Your House.
Kitchens from the era were small and closed off, built for a household that cooked differently than we do now. Most remodels open the layout toward the dining or living space and add storage. Period details worth keeping include the original cabinetry and tile, plus a built-in breakfast nook if the house has one. A dishwasher and under-cabinet lighting fit in without breaking the look.

Original 1920s bathrooms often have tilework worth saving and layouts that aren't. Upgraded plumbing and real ventilation come first, since moisture is what destroys these rooms. From there, a reconfigured layout can fit a walk-in shower, double vanity, or added storage. A tile specialist can repair or replicate damaged sections of original tile. Heated floors and water-efficient fixtures fit under period finishes without announcing themselves.

Gravity furnaces and aging boilers are inefficient and hard to control. A modern replacement, whether forced air, mini-splits, or radiant floor, cuts energy use substantially. Homeowners who want to keep original radiators can refurbish them and pair them with a new high-efficiency boiler. Programmable thermostats and ceiling fans round out the comfort upgrades.

A century of settling and moisture leaves marks, and in some regions so do termites. Before you commit to finishes, have a professional inspect the foundation and the framing that carries the house. Reinforcing joists or correcting drainage costs far less handled now than after the finishes are in.
Remodeling a 1920s house takes contractors who have opened up plaster walls before and know what they're likely to find. Block matches you with vetted contractors experienced in older homes, with clear pricing and support from planning through the final walkthrough. Block helps you compare quotes side by side, so the hidden-condition risk that comes with a century-old house is priced honestly from the start. Start your 1920s renovation with Block.
Written by David Rudin
David Rudin
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